NSRI Mossel Bay

Paddling Update: DAY 27-35

Paddle Day 27:

Struis Baai to Arniston 28km (2hr 50min)

Today was a nice and short day with a side swell and wind but neither of much strength. Going around Arniston point I chose to go around the reef instead of taking the short cut through themiddle. If in doubt go around! I paddled up to the caves to get some great video footage but the GoPro kept on switching itself off after a few second…… Doh! I forgot to put the SD card into it last night. Idiot! Still having issues with my VHF radio. Something to do with the external microphone and speaker I guess. All in all a fine day on the water

Paddle Day 28:

Arniston to Cape Infanta 71km (7hrs 21min)

After 3 days of waiting for the strong Easterly winds to stop it was finally go time. On hurdle that I have is the Overberg weapons Test Centre and a patch of water they have laid claim too and is restricted. A no go area 10km long extending 5km out to sea! After contacting them the told me in no uncertain terms that if I proceed my life could be in danger. A little later in the conversation I asked if they would be doing any testing before 07h00 as I would be past their restricted waters. The head of security said just call me when you leave the area and that was that. I then arranged Mark to follow my tracker and then let Warren know when to call Test Centre.

On the water I made good time and was well passed their special waters before anything untoward happened. The first 20km I paddled quite close to the coast and was the planned route from there on was also supposed to be close to the coast but feeling relaxed and wanting to reduce the days distance I started heading straight towards Cape Infanta headland. I eventually ended up about 4km offshore and it saved my 4km.

Today was the first time I got too hot while on the water. My wetsuit top was doing its job but too well. I had to keep splash water over my head and inside the top to try and cool down. Tomorrow I must wear another top which will be the first time since starting. No I am not superstitious! Today was also the first time I listening to the radio. Not a bad option as I was getting a bit bored of my music.

Just before Cape Infanta Beetle Bailey and Warren arrived in a ski boat to give me some encouragement. By this time I was grumpy and wanted out so it was just what the doctor ordered, especially the ice cold cola as my juice was almost finished and well warm by now. They motored around getting some video footage and a while later a Nature Conservation boat pulled them over checking that they were not fishing in the reserve.

After rounding Cape Infanta there was still 8km to get to the village and my take out point. Oh Boy! Those last kilometres took ages to pass but pass they did and I got out at the slipway. Beet and Warren had gone up the Breede river to return the boat to it’s mooring and a while later Warren arrived to pick me up with the Land Rover.

That evening we spent the night at Mud Lark on the banks of the river. Many thanks to Tim and Hillary for putting looking after us. It is frustrating especially after long days that I don’t get much time to spend with our host and then are gone by 4am.

Paddle Day 28:

Cape Infanta to Jongensfontein 42km (5hr 10min)

Last night we had a braai with Beetle at his spot on the Breede river and I managed to convince him to join me for at least a bit of today’s paddle. I am not sure how keen he was at getting up so early but he’s not one to disappoint. My plan for the day was to get to Stillbaai but I changed that along the way.

We were on the water a few minutes after 5am and already there was a light SE wind blowing. Not ideal for a long paddle. We paddled and chatted for about 15km when Beetle said his farewells and turned to have a downwind back to Cape Infanta leaving me to carry onto Jongensfontein into a building head wind.

The chop slowly got steeper and steeper and eventually my ski was lifting up over the chop and banging down on the other side. Bang, Bang,Bang…. Not what I signed up for! Well there was nothing I could do but “carry on regardless”. I again cut across the bay to reduce the distance and at the furthest point I was just over 6km off shore. My average speed started to drop and was now below 9km/hr.

Rounding the point before Jongensfontein the wind seemed to follow me and was still bang on the nose and was gusting up to 20km/hr with white caps everywhere. I had a brief chat to a spear fisherman on his RIB circling his two mates in the water. He said they were not having much luck but were actually in a competition. I got the hint and went on my way.

Coming into Jongensfontein was pretty straight forward with Warren talked me in around the reef and breakers into a little gully in the rocks that the local surfers had cleared as their launch spot. It was good to be back on terra firma and able stretch the legs which were at the point of cramping.

The winds for the rest of the week are not looking very favourable and tonight we are being looked after by www.stillbay-river-lodge.com

Paddle Day 29:

Jongensfontein to Still Bay 12km (1hr 20min)

Today was a short hop to Still Bay to set up the next 3 days of paddling making them 30km each. the only problem I have at the moment is the forecast is for strong Easterly winds for a week!!! Oh dear me! I will be at the harbour before sunrise and hopefully there may be a small period of light winds to push to the next stops. Hold thumbs!

The River Lodge have kindly let us stay for another night or who know what we would have done! Sitting at the moment in the Lodge watching Man United vs Man City with Warren. Warrens team not having much luck at 2-0 down!

Paddle Day 30:

Stilbaai to Yzservarkpunt to Gouritsmond 43km (4hr 40min)

Sunrise today was on my right hand side. This might have started happening a few paddling days ago but this was the first clear sky sunrise for a while. Leaving Stilbaai to

day was wonderful. The wind had finally given me a break and the sunrise put me in a good space for the rest of the day.

Plan “A” was to get out at Yzservarkpunt Lighthouse in a tiny rocky bay that had a wee gap in the rocks to get out. Not a place to be if there is any sort of swell running. Today’s swell was just under 2m which was not too bad. Again I cut across the bay and ended up next to the coast a few km before the lighthouse alongside a private 22 house resort. Yip I counted them!

It was here I saw my second whale of the day but this one was having a ball. It was slamming its flukes onto the surface making one heck of a racket. At first I thought it was a speed boat ramping over the swell and banging down on the other side. I am amazed at how long it’s flukes are! Then it or maybe another kept slamming its tail down on the surface. A lekker show and distraction for me!

Arriving at the lighthouse I shelved plan “A” and initiated plan Bravo!….. Rodger Rodger!!! LOL The wind had not increased all that much and I could see the weather system over the shore had stalled which meant that for the time being not much was going to change so Gouritsmond was going to be my next goal.

The rest of the way I paddled only 100m off the coast line which is nice as I can measure my progress as I pass a house or rocky outcrop compared to cutting across a bay when all you see for hours is the point in the far distance which never seem to get any closer!

My first contact with Warren was only at the outskirts of town due to the lack of cell reception on the water. Arriving at the main beach was straight forward after rounding the point and then being guided in by what the locals must have thought was a mad man running along the beach waving his hands madly about.

A good day in the office for me.

What did you do today???

Paddle Day 31:

Goritzmond to Vleesbaai 11km (1hr 5min)

Last night we managed to get a spot at the local camp site thanks to Samantha at the gate. With a short hop to Vleesbaai we did not have to get up early so we had a good old “braai” and a few glasses of red wine for dinner. Waking up at 05h30 and the tent was flapping in the wind! Oh dear!

We took a quick drive to the beach to access the condition and I decided to go as it was such a short day it did not really matter if the wind was blowing hard. The one worry was the surf , which was quite meaty and with the low tide it was crunching on a sand bank.

When we eventually got our coffee fix, everything packed up and then back to the beach the surf looked even bigger. We took a long walk towards the river mouth and I found a spot that I was happy to try and launch from. According to my GPS I waited 11min before taking a gap and heading out luckily without any issues.

As I got closer to Vleesbaai and started to turn more left the sea flattened out and it became a lovely morning on the water. Rounding the last point with some high cliffs I saw a fisherman waving his hands about frantically and whistling at me. I understood what he meant but surly his line could not be this far off shore! I think he could be the WP casting champ because a second later his line hit me in the chest. With a quick flick I pushed it over my head and carried on as if nothing happened. I suppose I was lucky that it didn’t catch on anything which could have made things a bit tricky.

The last bit along the shore I paddled over huge schools of fish and a small school of dolphins frolicking about.

Vleesbaai is an interesting spot. Basically a gated community with only public access to the shop or the church. Non residents can walk to the beach. There are three home owners ass and three business entities that run the place and together they manage their own municipality chores etc.

Don’t dare park your car outside someone’s house near the beach if you want to fetch a lonely paddler!!!! lol

Tomorrow we go towards Mossel Bay.

Paddle Day 32:

Vleesbaai to Mossel Bay 30km (3hrs11min)

Yesterday afternoon I was spoilt. Judy, my wife, had driven up from Cape Town and will spend the next 10 days with us so I have been smiling a lot. This also means that our meals will go many levels better than canned food.

Leaving Vleesbaai was a little tricky as the swell had increased and the low tide had exposed the rocks. Most of the paddle was into a 10km/hr head wind and a swell from the right side. I cut across the bay to the next point. I had a brief chat on the VHF radio to Warren from the parking lot at Pinnacle Point Golf Estate. The estate looks impressive even from the sea.

Rounding the point and turning into the bay I had to keep a little ways off to go around a reef off the Point Hotel. The hotel had offered us accommodation for our stay but when I arrived at the beach the Ruan Knobel, local paddler and lifeguard, whisked us off to their house and were given a hearty breakfast. We stayed with the Knobels for two nights. We did however get treated to a cappuccino on the balcony of the Point Hotel. The next day was a weather/rest day so we took the opportunity to do a bit of shopping admin and ended up watching the James Bond movie, Skyfall, in the Garden route mall.

point-hotel-mossel-bay-dec-12

I felt a little claustrophobic in the mall with thousands of shoppers buzzing about the place! Can’t wait to be back on the water tomorrow!

Paddle Day 33:

Mossel Bay – Herolds Bay – Victoria Bay 45km (4hr 15min)

Back into the paddling routine we got up at 03h45 to be on the water by 05h00. Four locals including Ruan, in double paddleyaks, joined me for a while across Mossel Bay. NSRI station 15 with their new craft came along to support this small flotilla. It was a misty morning and visibility was down to about 2km so with no reference points I had to keep a check on my GPS heading. A light localised NW wind started to give a bit of assistance. After about 8km the first paddleyak turned back. The other carried on for 20km and then got a lift home with the NSRI. Many thanks to all for the company and support.

nsri-station-15

Once on my own I started to catch a few lumps and quickly came to the entrance of Herolds Bay and had a radio chat to Warren. I was feeling good and decided to carry on to Victoria Bay another 18km along. Warren and Judy had been chatting to the lifeguards who gave them some boiling water for a morning cup of cofffee on the beach. They also managed to spot me with their binoculars from their tower which made Judy a bit more relaxed. She said that tracking my progress from her PC at work/home is very different from actually watching me disappear out to sea and then waiting at the other side for me to reappear.

From Herolds Bay the coast line curves left to Wilderness and there are no landing spots cause the land meets the sea with high cliffs. After rounding Rooiklip point I passed two fishermen fishing from at least 50m above the sea. A brief chat in sign language indicated that they had were not having much luck. I am still not sure how they got to that ledge but I am sure they had similar thoughts about where I was.

Vic Bay was a welcome sight especially seeing that the surf was small. We all remember the race from here to Sedgefield when the surf was rather unplayable. After arriving the lifeguards came over for a chat. They had been advised by the Herolds Bay crew that I was coming and to keep an eye out for me. It’s nice to know that people care ? Thanks guys.

Out Victoria Bay accommodation had unfortunately fallen through so we scrambled around to find something. The local camp site was also full but we managed to get a spot at Carmil caravan site but OUCH! They certainly know how to charge especially for a non profit Christian camp. No wonder they are only half full.

We will stay here for two nights as tomorrow is another weather day with strong Easteries forecast.

Next leg on Monday towards Buffels Bay 46km

Paddle Day 34:

Victoria Bay to Buffels Bay 43km (3hrs 45min)

After a day wondering around George we had to get back into the usual routine of getting up at 03h45, striking camp, the all important cuppa java and then heading to the beach. Once there its time to attach all the electronic devices to the surf ski and life jacket. I suppose being this time of the year and having to tip toe around broken beer bottles in the parking area is par for the course!

Launching at Vic Bay took a few minutes while waiting for the sets to pass and then a quick sprint to get passed the impact zone. Luckily I got it right and did not get my hair wet.

victoria-bay-lifeguards-dec-12

The trip was a good one with some lumps pushing me in the right direction and then the last hour the wind increased from behind which always makes me smile. I saw a lot of dolphins but they seemed to be a in hunting mode and ignored all my attempts to attract them!

Coming into Buffels the surf was impressive in size especially on the outer point. Not wanting to have too much excitement I kept well away from the surf zone and paddle into the beach without issues.

Paddle Day 35:

Buffels Bay to Knysna 8km (50min)

Alastair Fraser and Judy joined me for today’s paddle in a double ski. We left Buffels at 06h00 to get to the heads just before high tide. There was a slight head wind but the swell had dropped toless than 2m and it was a quick fun paddle to the heads. At the heads another paddler, Darren, came out to welcome me to Knysna.

It is a special feeling to paddle through the heads. The first time I came into the heads was on a yacht late one evening with a fair swell running. That was quite exciting (read fear!!!) compared to today which was beautifully calm and flat.

Later in the morning I did a radio interview on Knysna FM and had a quick chat to a couple planning on paddling/sailing up the West Coast to the Mediterranean. It great to meet others who like to live life in a similar way.

Plan for tomorrow is to head towards Plett

knysna-heads-with-ali-judy-dec-12knysna-heads-dec-12

 

Paddling Update day 25-26

Shark Cage Diving


How does Richard confront his fear of the Great White Shark especially since he will have to paddle across “Shark Alley”, Dyer Island tomorrow.

shark-cage-diving-dec-12 (1)

He goes shark cage-diving!!!

Thank you to Marine Dynamics shark tours who gave Richard and Warren an opportunity of a lifetime to see these creature up close and personal on their cage-diving boat, Slashfin.

“What an experience! Such a professional group of people and so knowledgeable. We saw more than ten different Great White Sharks. I cannot believe how many sharks there are out here. Strangely enough, I am far more at ease after my time with the Marine Dynamics team” said Richard.

Marine Dynamics also gave Richard an escort when he paddled from Kleinbaai to Die Dam via “Shark Alley.”

Paddle Day 25:

Kleinbaai to Die Dam 45km 4hrs 15min

Last night we stayed in the Marine Dynamics cottages so we could roll out of bed and down the road to the slipway. Zzzzzz Zzzzzz Zzzzzz was the cell phone alarm clock as it vibrated around the bedside table at 04h15. Not sure why I bother setting the thing as I am always already awake.

45 minutes later I was paddling backwards away from the slipway. Done this way to avoid damage to the rudder! The maddening SE winds of the past week had finally disappeared and was replaced by very calm conditions but this came with fog that got thicker as the morning progressed.

Marine Dynamics put their 8 meter RIB, Calypso, and a 3 meter RIB on the water all to look after me as I paddled pass “Shark Alley” which lies between Dyer Island and Pearly Beach. The fog eventually got so thick that the visibility was down to 10 meters (I am sure what ever was under the water could see me no problem). I had to back out of one channel through the kelp to take the one next to the island which is a wider and safer option for the boats. I was amazed when I saw the GPS tracks going so close to the Island, I never even saw it!!!

My compass had blown off my boat while driving to Gaansbaai into the South East wind and I only noticed this just before launching which left no time to reattach it. Not having the compass left me very disorientated when the fog was its thickest. At one point I was heading 90 degrees off course and had to be redirected by Calypso. After that I swapped positions and chose to followed them instead.

The first time I saw land was a glimpse of Quoin Point peeping through the fog. It was about here that Calypso with Michelle and Oliver on board had to turn back for Kleinbaai. Dickie in the small RIB carried on the rest of the way. By the time I turned to head towards Die Dam the Westerly had started to blow and increased in strength rapidly.

Beaching at die Dam was relatively simple, I just had to avoid a few blinders and beach in 2 inch surf. Being a small RIB it joined me on the beach and in a few minutes it was on the trailer and towed off with Wilfred behind the wheel of his Landy 90.

Camping tonight at Die Dam and tomorrows plan is a 05h30 start to go around Cape Agulhas and to Struisbaai. Paul Moxley and Bryan Allott are driving up from Cape Town in the wee hours tomorrow to join me around the most Southern point of Africa.

Paddle Day 26:

Die Dam to Struisbaai (Cape Agulhas) 40km 4h36min

At 5am this morning I got a text message, “My GPS says I be there at 05h11”. Paul Moxley had left Cape Town early this morning to join me for the days paddle. I like it when people step out of their routine and do something different. He said later on the water that he could have come up with 100 reasons not do do it, but he didn’t because paddling around Agulhas is special.

We set off a little after five thirty and paddling out onto a calm sea and no wind. The swell had dropped down to 2 meters and having some company made the choice to cut across the bay to Agulhas easy. Our pace was a very comfortable and the conditions just got better as the morning progressed. 

The highlight of today has to be that I have just paddled around the southern most point of the African continent, Cape Agulhas! Having sailed past many times I know how rough Agulhas can be, but today it was perfect.

By my calculations, which are dubious at the best of times, I have paddled 1/3rd of the distance around the country! How lekker is that?

Paul treated Warren and I to a fish and chips brunch from the local caravan vendor in the harbour. He also put us up for the next few days on his farm near Die Mond in a big old Cape Dutch farm house. Braai time tonight!

Tomorrows plan it to paddle to Arniston. Wednesday looks like a non paddling day with strong head winds. We will make it up with a radio interview in the morning at Radio Overberg 98.4fm in Bredasdorp.

4 December 2012

At 08h30 today our Land Rover was the most southerly Land Rover on the African continent. In fact of any type of vehicle!!!!

5 December 2012

We were privileged to spend some time on air with Alan Rosenmeyer of  Radio Overberg on his Actuality and Marketing Show, daily from 08h00 to 09h00. What a lot of fun. I will share the podcast when we get it. Thanks Alan & Pof.

 

Paddling Update day 20-24

Paddle Day 20

Melkboss to Witsands 57 km 

Today I was on the water just after 5am. The swell had picked up and the tide was low so it took a little bit of timing and paddling over white water before making it to the back line. The day’s plan was quite simple “The shortest distance between two points is a straight line” so I headed straight across Table Bay with Robben Island to my right. The water was once again in that oily state but this would change later. The bay shoreline was covered in the morning haze which only got worse as the city and traffic woke up. For some reason the VHF coms with Warren was not working. I found out later the external microphone and talk piece was faulty and had remained stuck on transmit which ran the battery down. We then changed to cell phone coms but I had left the Land Rover phone on silent so Warren had no idea I was calling. I then called Mark who managed to relay messages to Warren’s own number which I had not yet programmed into my phone.

Teething problems like these were good to sort out in my own backyard in calm conditions.I stopped a few times to try my GoPro camera which I mounted onto a short pole so I can video myself. It is quite tricky staying upright but I think the footage came out just fine. I will post it when I get the time to do some editing.

Rounding Karbonkelberg was when things started to get a bit bumpy. There was still a 3m swell running so I opted out of taking the straight line between the rocks. Ya, I must be getting soft in my old age or maybe just like making it to the end of the day in one piece!

From here a NW wind started to blow and I got my first taste of a downwind and a broad smile was showing all the way to Slangkop Lighthouse only to disappear when I approached the point off Witsand / crayfish factory. The surf was pounding onto the point and my heart sank thinking this was going to be a tricky landing. As I rounded the point I could see that there was a clear path to the slipway with no surf at all. Pop! Smile back on!

It would have been wonderful to paddle more distance, especially with the tail wind, but there is no safe landing spots in a big SW swell before Cape Point. All in all I was happy with the day.

Paddle Day 21

Witsands around Cape Point to Buffels Bay 33km

The forecast was spot on. No wind in the early morning and then it would switch from a SE to a Westerly. The swell had flattened out. In fact it was so calm that South West reef was not breaking and rounding the point I am sure I could have touched the rocks.

Bianca Beavitt joined me for the paddle and we made a very comfortable average speed of 10km/hr. I stopped a few times to take more video of the paddle and on the False Bay side I paddled into the “cave” and got well up to the pebble beach under the cave. The water was crystal clear and I could see the bottom at least 12m down.

The last stretch to Buffels Bay the wind had switched West which gave a light head wind.All along today’s route the VHF coms with Warren were working perfectly and once he even called up to query if all was OK because I had stopped off Cape Point to do some videoing and he was above me at the lighthouse. I felt like a schoolboy being busted doing something naughty! ? He told me later that he had become a bit of a tourist attraction at the lighthouse as the bus loads of punters were asking him all sorts of questions about us below.

After rounding the point I took the opportunity of paddling to the cave in the cliffs below lighthouse and then made my way to Buffels Bay. Just after leaving the cave the Westerly wind started to pick up, which was very good for tomorrow’s False Bay crossing to Hanklip as it cannot be done in a SE wind.

Paddle Day 22

False Bay crossing to Hangklip 40km

Our earliest wake up call so far at 03h45 to pick up our safety duck and crew at Big Bay lifesaving club and then we had a long drive passed Simonstown to Millers point to launch the duck.

We were eventually on the water at 06h30 and the wind had started to puff. The forecast suggested a NW but for much of the paddle it blew from the North and even felt, at times, NE.For much of the paddle the North wind chop was side on and the remaining sea swell from the SW was coming from the other side which left the sea being quite lumpy, but there was always a little bump to ride, helping to keep the average speed up.

It was fantastic to have my good mate “Beetle” Bailey along for the paddle. This was his Cape Point Challenge training paddle! It had been a while since we had chatted so for the first hour I caught up on all the local news and we even joked about the big fish in this part of the world. Then a pod of seal hurriedly came porpoising past us and I turned to Beet and said: “I don’t like seeing this! It’s often a sign that something may be chasing them.”

Shortly afterwards the safety boat drew alongside and Derrick told us that there was a pod of Killer whales coming our way. Mmmmmmm this could be tricky. What to do? First thing was to make sure Beetle was between myself and them – lol

What magnificent creatures. They sped past us only a few boat lengths away. Not even giving us a second glance. I am sure they had those seals in their sights. We guessed that there were about fifteen Orca’s in the pod and I also spotted a juvenile. I believe the males are the ones with the bigger dorsal fins. When they are about to break the surface the fins look like submarine periscopes cutting through the water. Definitely the highlight of the trip so far!

The deal with the safety boat was that if they saw something that was of concern they were to come along side me ASAP. I mentioned this to Beet and he agreed that that was a cunning plan. A while later the rubber duck came motoring towards us and without saying a word Beetle and I paddled close to each other in anticipation of the next thing in the water, only to be told that we were now half way!

In comparison the rest of the trip was pretty uneventful. The last hour the wind and swells lined up a lot better and we were treated to some great downwind conditions until we passed the Hangklip lighthouse and turned into Masbaai for a short upwind to the slipway where Warren was waiting with the Land Rover and boat trailer.

Paddle Day 23

Hangklip to Hermanus 43km 4hrs 45min

Last night we stayed at the legendary Hangklip Hotel and were met by chef Eugene who coincidently was born with a cleft palate. At this stage the wind was howling around the mountain and the sea was covered in spray. The forecasts indicated that the wind would start subsiding the following day by 11am and then switch to SW in the late afternoon. The day’s plan was to go paddle to the slipway at Hawston, a manageable 30km.

We did not stay in the hotel bungalows but in a private two bedroom holiday house. What a great little place it was with a cool collection of vinyl records plus two turn tables. It’s such a pity we don’t get to spend much time at each spot to really make the most of what they each have to offer.

It was Warren’s first dinner duty and he served up a gourmet creamy cheese, spring onion and tuna pasta with a glass of red wine. It sure hit the spot. Knowing I did not have to be up at 04h30 I hit the sack after 10h00. As I am in a routine, I was awake by then anyway, only to hear the wind was still giving its all.

Later we decided to drive to Bettys Bay to look at the slipway in case the wind did not slack off and I wanted to use this as a get out point. Then it was to a coffee shop to wait for the wind to do its thing which it started to do around 11h30.

Back to Hangklip and onto the water by 12h15. Leaving Masbaai had a few interesting moments as I had to avoid the big swells breaking on the outer reefs. Once I rounded the point I headed towards Bettys Bay. Along the rocky shoreline the sea got very lumpy with the bounce-back and progress was a little slow. I also think I was fighting a bit of head current.

There were lots of penguins around and the water had these dark spot all over it. Some spots as wide as 50m. After going over one of them I realised that these were schools of bait fish. Now I know when you have little fish you get bigger ones eating them and then bigger ones eating the big ones etc….. you get where I am going with this…. I do not like paddling over bait fish!!!

I was surprised not to see any fishing boats taking advantage. Maybe they were all out looking for perlemoen!!!

Most of the time I try to paddle along the shoreline which offers the quickest option to get off the water if there are any issues. The evening before, Warren and I study the coastline and decide on possible exit points for myself and the positions that he must go to, to follow me. Yesterday he managed to keep me in his sights for most of the day, thanks to the coastal road being slightly elevated.

Before I got to Hawston I decided to push on to Hermanus while the going was good. After advising Warren, he told me Louise Fick from the Kleinmond tourism Bureau had tracked him down at the Kleinmond slipway and had given him a Cape Whale Coast Cap and Kogelberg Biopshere Guardian T-shirt for me. Nice one, thanks Louise!

Another surprise was Kevin Weaving (GPS Tracking South Africa (SA) Fleet Management [my backup GSM tracker]). He is a schoolmate of mine whom I have not seen since school days and he joined Warren at the Hawston slipway and followed us the rest of the way to Hermanus. It was lekker to catch up with him at the harbour after the paddle.

All in all it was a good day on the water. Saturday is Judy’s Birthday and Sunday the swell is over 6m so I will take these as rest days and then plan to get passed Gaansbaai on Monday.

Paddle Day 24

Hermanus around Danger point to Kleinbaai 43km

Last night we were fortunate to stay in the Windsor Hotel in Hermanus.

A lovely place overlooking the bay and I could see the conditions by glancing out of the window.

Kevin Weaving from GPS Tracking South Africa has been our shadow for the past few days has escorted Warren from view point to view point making his life a lot easier. It is wonderful meeting people like Kevin. There are good people out there ?

I was on the water at 06h00 from the new harbour. I had the option to paddle straight across the bay which would have been about 10km shorter but I am sticking to my safety rule of following the shore line unless I have company. The first leg was towards the main beach was a great way to start the day. Swells and wind from behind ?

Paddling behind the breakers following the beach to Gaansbaai also turned out to be a good leg. With a little bit of a following bump caused by the swell reflection off the cliffs at Hermanus. The swell was still running at 3.5m and a couple of times I had to make haste to get seawards to avoid being dumped by the occasional rouge wave. In the end I stayed a fair way off the back line.

Once I was on the Gaansbaai side of the bay and heading into the swells towards Danger Point my progress slowed significantly. I was treated to some common dolphins and a whale near the point. As I approached the point I was feeling quite confident as the sea felt calm. I could see the swell breaking on the reefs off the point but how bad could it be!

Danger Point – I now understand how it got it’s name!

The further off the point I got the bigger the swell seemed to get. There was a swell running in from straight ahead and one from my left. When the two met and peaked the crest would crumble into a massive rolling ball of white water big enough to break my boat. This appeared to be happening all around me and at random! GET ME OUT OF HERE!!

I had to paddle almost 2km SW, straight out to sea, to get beyond the reefs before I could think about turning the corner. It was a very long, lonely and nervous 2km’s. Up and down keeping a weary eye out for the breaking crests. Eventually I started to turn only to see another reef, which I later discovered was the Birkenhead reef [see foot note]. I made a line to go around it. At the last minute I decided I had had enough and sneaked on the inside and started to make the most of the tail wind and following sea to Kleinbaai. This leg was covered with blue bottles and at times i had to just drift to get passed them so my paddle would not pick them up and fling them onto me.

Approaching Kleinbaai I was very glad to have the assistance of the harbour master to guide me in. In fact I almost came in too soon and would certainly have been banged up in the surf and kelp. It is a tricky entrance with the big swell running and every now and then a wave would break right across the main channel. In the end I came in without any issues.

Arriving at the slipway I was surprised to get a round of applause. A group of people who had been tracking my progress come down to see me paddle in. Here I met the resident marine biologist team from Marine Dynamics Shark Tours, Michelle, Oliver and Alison. Michelle quietly asked if I had seem any of the Great Whites Sharks today. To which I said NO! “Oh!” she said, “well I can tell you they saw you”…….mmmmmm

The local press were also there and once the pictures and interview were done we were invited up to the Great White House for a cupa java. Ah! A big cappuccino, comfy chair and a lekker long chat. Marine Dynamics have agreed to escort me through shark alley (YAY) when I head off next. But not before they put us inside a cage, under water, and get a Great White Shark to swim past!!!! I may be coming face to face with my biggest fear.

Good or bad thing? I will let you know……..

[HMS Birkenhead, also referred to as HM Troopship Birkenhead or steam frigate Birkenhead, was one of the first iron-hulled ships built for the Royal Navy. She was designed as a frigate, but was converted to a troopship before being commissioned.

On 26 February 1852, while transporting troops primarily of the 74th Regiment of Foot to Algoa Bay, she was wrecked at Danger Point near Gansbaai on the outskirts of Cape Town, South Africa. There were not enough serviceable lifeboats for all the passengers, and the soldiers famously stood firm, thereby allowing the women and children to board the boats safely. Only 193 of the 643 people onboard survived, and the soldiers’ chivalry gave rise to the “women and children first” protocol when abandoning ship, while the “Birkenhead drill” of Rudyard Kipling’s poem came to describe courage in face of hopeless circumstances]

Milnerton to Granger Bay Paddle 17 Nov 2012

More than 20 paddlers from around Cape Town joined Richard Kholer as he paddled in to Granger Bay in Cape Town.  Amongst them was Jade Carstens. Jade was born with a cleft palate which was corrected after seven years, “He (Richard) has no idea how great it is, what he is doing, I never thought people knew or cared about this,” said Jade.

With Richard within striking distance of Cape Town, tourismZA, decided to step up the exposure for the expedition.  Try as we may, we could NOT get the green light for a single, lone paddler to paddle into Cape Town harbour. It seems that the logistics of getting a single paddler into Cape Town harbour with only one week’s notice is an insurmountable logistical task for Cape Town port control. Fortunately, Oceana Power Boat Club at Granger Bay came to the rescue and invited Richard and everybody who paddled the 6.5km with him from Milnerton to Granger Bay. The idea was to step up the exposure for the Paddling for Smiles expedition and use the reception as a platform to draw media attention to a lone paddler, who, against all odds is persevering through an endeavour that is nothing short of a herculean undertaking.

supporters-escourt-richard-into-granger-bay1

The event was to draw attention to the plight of children born with cleft lips and palates and raise funds to perform corrective surgery on them.

For every R5,500.00 donated to Operation Smile South Africa we can facilitate corrective facial surgery on a child and give them their God-given right to a smile.

Thanks to the efforts of tourismZA and Richard Kohler, we were able to raise over R10 000.00 towards the Paddling for Smiles Expedition. A complete list of all who contributed is available here.  This list is updated weekly.

tourismaZA would like thank all the fantastic people of the West Coast for assisting and providing accommodation for Richard and the Paddling for Smiles Expedition as he made his way to Cape Town.

We are still very far from the target of R1 000 000.00, which is going to take a huge effort on the part of everybody involved to make this a reality. We look now to the East Coast of South Africa and the next part of this epic journey.

supporters-escourt-richard-into-granger-bay-2

 

richard-paddles-into-granger-bay

Paddle Day 3 and 4

Paddle day 3:

Tuesday 23rd October 2012 we made the 42km from Alexander Bay to Holgat River.  So how did I feel after a 5hr paddle. Well a lack of on the water training, lack of time spent setting up my new Fenn Swordfish, lumpy sea, very cold water and an increasing head wind left me a little frustrated when I eventually washed up the beach just before midday.

That night we were allowed to camp at the secret Holgat camp site which is a few km up the river gorge without security baby sitting us. They actually put an old lock onto the main gate and gave us a spare key and asked us to just throw the key away when we leave! Unheard of!! So we have to give the Alexkor security a massive thumbs up for everything they have done for us especially Liuwelyn and Frans Ruiters. Oh yes, we were also told not to drive around or we might get shot! ?

What a fabulous place to camp. A night out under the stars.

Paddle day 4:

It was up a 5am to be on the water by 6am, a few minutes before sunrise. The sea had calmed down a lot. Not knowing exactly what the days wind forecast was I tried to take a closer conservative line to shore. Around 8am the wind suddenly switched to a hot but strong offshore wind. At this time I was going outside one of the many reefs and had to dig deep to get back inshore to avoid being blow out to sea. It stayed this way till about the last hour when it faded to nothing.

Close to Port Nolloth I passed a few diamond boats doing their stuff. I came along side one just to say hello. They asked the obvious question, “where did you come from?”. After telling them the one chap just shook his head and said “jy’s f@$%ng mal” turned around and carried on working. Go to love it.

Got the 38km covered in just over 4hrs. I tried a 1mm wetsuit top that The Paddling Centre had given me, to try and combat the cold water. WOW! What a difference it made. Can’t understand why we don’t wear them more in the Cape. Especially on the late evening downwind paddles.

So as I sit here writing this the wind has switched to the North I wish I could get a few more hours in today to make some use of this wind but the next point South that I can get out at is Kleinsee which is still 56km away.Yesterday we are in the comfort of the Bedrock Lodge overlooking the harbour courtesy of Freddie.

Today I hope their will be some of this North wind left. The plan right now is to paddle off around 05h30 mist permitting and see what happens.

So the expedition begins – Day 1

restart-header-600x200

Paddling for Smiles

My Surf Skis finally arrived on Thursday late afternoon after a 3 week wait which delayed our departure by 6 days. I headed off early on Friday morning to fetch my “seconder” – Paul Brouwer en route in Darling. Paul will be looking after me till the middle of November when I hope to in or around Cape Town.

The drive up to the Orange River was an 800km mixed bag of conditions. Rain storm in darling- hail storm near Springbok and then hot dry conditions at the end. Arriving in Alexander Bay is a little depressing. The town is slowly fading away but the people here are warm and welcoming.

Looking for the weather window

Our first order was to find our guest house, Af en Toe. It’s an old 9 bedroom communal house which we have all to ourselves. Our second task was to get down to the harbour and check out the sea conditions. Access to the harbour is restricted as it is in the mine area. After a few calls we hopped into a mine security vehicle and were driven down to the harbour. All the diamond dredging boats were safely hiding away in the harbour with the sea pounding 5m swells into the coast. Every now and then a wave would close out across the entrance! Certainly not what we wanted to see.

What to do!

I decided that we will have another look on Saturday morning and try and give it a go. Back to the guest house for a plate of spagbog ala Paul and a good night rest. We had arranged a security vehicle to escort us and the Land Rover to the harbour at 8am. No need for an early start with only a 12km paddle ahead. Thankfully the wind had not started blowing but the swell was still thumping. Keen to get the paddling on the go I decided to give it a bash.

Wow what an experience!!!

I am not shy to admit I was “crapping” myself as I paddled out of the harbour and don’t remember paddling in swells this big before. The waves I counted 10 seconds to go up and down the other side. I made a beeline for the deep sea to stay away from the rogue swells that had their tops cresting and breaking. Getting hit by one of these would have been disastrous. From my GPS track I worked my way 2km off shore before heading North. At the top of each swell the wind would suddenly gust strongly offshore. This is caused by the air the wave displaces as it moves forward. Freaky!!

Paddling to the Namibian border

I paddled 7km to the Namibian border before turning around and heading south. The way back I could follow my GPS track which was comforting. By this time the vis had improved and I was feeling excited. Approaching the harbour I followed the leading lights in. Paul was on the VHF radio giving his advice and with this I made a safe and much relieved return to Alexander Bay harbour.

Richard Kohler rides the waves again

In December last year, filled with enthusiasm and the joys of life in the great outdoors he launched from a beach in Mozambique. His goal was to be the first solo-surfski paddler to paddle the entire 3600km South African coastline between Mozambique and Namibia. His purpose was to raise enough money to finance the reconstructive surgery that would enable 200 children to smile for the first time.

He didn’t make it!

During the planning stages conversations about the Herculean challenge ahead of him always seemed to wind their way back to the worst case scenario of a shark attack. The shark attack happened on day three of his paddle! A little rattled and more than a little anxious he put out to sea again in a replacement kayak.

Within a week of getting started the KwaZulu Natal coastline swallowed him up, worked him over and unceremoniously spat him out as a buckled man on a remote beach at the Amatikulu River mouth.

Mentally shaken up by the shark attack and physically damaged by the KwaZulu Natal surf, he gingerly put out to sea again. Hopefully, with a little physio at the next few stop overs the pain would subside.

Behind the scenes, with each passing day, word was spreading about Richard Kohler and his epic paddle for smiles. Despite the battering headwinds, shark attack and the serious punishment his body was taking he soldiered on.

Slowly, one kilometre at a time, with everybody’s support he was getting there. After three weeks he got as far as Winklespruit and then he suffered a knockout blow – the expedition was robbed. The low-lives that infest parts of this planet with their rot broke in and stole all the expedition equipment; safety gear, navigational equipment, radios, computers, cameras….everything – including irreplaceable photographs and video footage.

For all intent and purpose, Richard and Riaan had given it their best shot – expedition over!

…or not?

Seconds out; round number 2.

On 14th October 2012 (yes, that’s in 10 days time) Richard will launch from Alexander Bay, paddle up to the Orange River mouth which marks the border of South Africa and Namibia. He will do a ceremonious U-turn and begin his epic journey all over again.

“I have no intention of giving up!” said Richard in his quiet, resolute way. “With the support I have received from family, friends and people I have never met, I am more determined than ever to paddle the entire 3600km South African coast line. Together, where each of us do what we can to make this expedition work, we will give the gift of a smile to 200 children.”

Say no more!