Richard Kohler paddling past a container ship bow

Day 27 – Struis Baai to Arniston, 28km

A nice, short day with a side swell and wind, neither of much strength. Going around Arniston point I chose to go around the reef instead of the short cut through the middle. If in doubt, go around.

Day 28 – Arniston to Cape Infanta, 71km

After three days waiting for strong easterlies to stop, it was finally go time, and I had to slip past the Overberg Weapons Test Centre’s restricted waters before anything untoward happened. Today was the first time I got too hot on the water, my wetsuit top doing its job too well.

Day 29 – Cape Infanta to Jongensfontein, 42km

A braai with Beetle at his spot on the Breede River the night before, and I managed to convince him to join me for at least part of the day. We were on the water a few minutes after 5am into a light south-easter, not ideal for a long paddle. After about 15km Beetle turned for a downwind run back to Cape Infanta, leaving me to carry on into a building headwind that had my ski banging down off the chop, not what I signed up for. Coming into Jongensfontein, Warren talked me in around the reef and breakers into a little gully the local surfers had cleared as their launch spot.

Day 30 – Jongensfontein to Still Bay, 12km

A short hop to set up the next three days at a more manageable 30km each, with strong easterlies forecast for the whole week ahead. The River Lodge kindly let us stay another night, and I spent the evening watching Manchester United thump Warren’s Manchester City.

Day 31 – Still Bay to Gouritsmond, 43km

Sunrise on my right hand side for the first clear morning in a while, and the wind finally gave me a break. Plan A was to get out at Yzervarkpunt Lighthouse, but with the swell cooperating I shelved that for plan B and pushed on to Gouritsmond instead. Along the way a whale kept slamming its flukes on the surface, at first I thought it was a speed boat banging down off the chop. Arriving at the main beach, I was guided in by what the locals must have thought was a madman running along the sand waving his arms.

Day 32 – Vleesbaai to Mossel Bay, 30km

Yesterday afternoon I was spoilt. Judy, my wife, had driven up from Cape Town and will spend the next ten days with us. Most of the paddle was into a 10km/h head wind. Ruan Knobel, a local paddler and lifeguard, whisked us off to their house for a hearty breakfast the moment I arrived at the beach. The Point Hotel had also offered us accommodation and treated us to a cappuccino on their balcony overlooking the bay.

Point Hotel, Mossel Bay

Day 33 – Mossel Bay to Victoria Bay, 45km

Up at 03h45 to be on the water by 05h00. Four locals in double paddleskis joined me across Mossel Bay, and NSRI Station 15 with their new craft came along to support the flotilla. It was a misty morning with visibility down to about 2km, so I had to keep a check on my GPS heading with no reference points. Once on my own I decided to push on past Herolds Bay all the way to Victoria Bay.

NSRI Station 15 escort

From Herolds Bay the coastline curves to Wilderness with no landing spots, high cliffs meeting the sea the whole way. The lifeguards at Victoria Bay had been warned by the Herolds Bay crew to keep an eye out for me, and came over for a chat once I landed. Good to know people care.

Victoria Bay lifeguards

Day 34 – Victoria Bay to Buffels Bay, 43km

Back into the usual routine, up at 03h45, striking camp, the all-important cup of coffee, then down to the beach to tape all the electronics to the ski and life jacket. The trip was a good one, some lumps pushing me in the right direction and the wind picking up from behind in the last hour, which always makes me smile. Coming into Buffels the surf was impressive on the outer point, so I kept well clear and paddled in without issue.

Day 35 – Buffels Bay to Knysna, 8km

Alastair Fraser and Judy joined me for today’s paddle in a double ski. We left Buffels at 06h00 to catch the heads just before high tide. It is a special feeling to paddle through the heads. The first time I came in was on a yacht late one evening with a fair swell running, quite exciting compared to today, which was beautifully calm and flat. Another paddler, Darren, came out to welcome me at the heads.

Knysna Heads with Alastair and Judy Paddling through the Knysna Heads
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